Wild as the Wind

Passo Campagneda, Valmalenco

How about sleeping with your head in Italy and your feet in Switzerland? At Passo Campagneda, in northern Italy’s Bernina range, you can do just that. Not only is the spot quirky from a geographic point of view, however, it also sets you in one of the most astounding mountain camping locations in Europe. The views in each direction are dizzyingly good and take in some of Italy’s highest and aesthetically appealing mountains: to the south, the shapely Pizzo Scalino; to the east, Gran Zebru and Ortles; to the north, Piz Bernina, Piz Palu and the giant Felleria glacier; to the west Monte Disgrazia and the Bregaglia range. The trek up to the pass is easy; the trek down is almost invariably plod with a very heavy heart…!

The area’s hiking possibilities are overwhelming, but the most impressive route passes under the tip of the hanging Felleria glacier before crossing a high pass that eventually leads down to Rifugio Marinelli, from where the views towards Monte Scerscen, Pizzo Roseg and Piz Bernina are simply sumptuous.

Pizzo Scalino from just below Passo Campagneda by Kieran Cunningham

To reach Passo Campagneda, drive north from the town of Sondrio towards Chiesa in Valmalenco before turning right at Lanzada and following the switchbacks all the way up to Gera Lake. Leaving your car at the lake, the pass can be reached in around 2 hours on foot, heading east.