Semi-Civilized

Agneda, Val Vedello, Valtellina

The Orobic Alps in the north of Italy are one of the few remaining, truly wild ranges in continental Europe. There’s not a ski lift in sight and the few mountain huts remaining are usually unmanned and far less frequented than elsewhere. Compare to the Dolomites, the Mont Blanc Massif and the Val d’Aosta or Gran Paradiso areas, the trails here are blissfully quiet – if you happen to come across a tourist, it will most likely be the author himself! From the mighty fang of Pizzo di Coca, to the panoramic viewpoint of Pizzo di Rhodes and the intimidatingly named Pizzo del Diavolo (‘Devil’s Peak’), the Orobic Alps are crammed with outstandingly impressive peaks and, wending between them, some of the best walking trails in Italy.

In one of the range’s 12 northern valleys, Val Vedello, an ideal basecamp for exploring the best the Orobie have to offer is situated a few hundred meters past the tiny, stone-built and incredibly picturesque village of Agneda. The ‘campsite’ itself is no more than an enclosed patch of grass where anyone can enjoy a spot of free-of-charge camping, but boasts beautiful views south onto the Rhetic Alps and north toward the towering Cima Soliva. Although the campsite has no running water or bathroom facilities, there are plenty of freshwater streams in the vicinity…and trees!